What You'll Need
- Heat gun or propane micro-torch
- Shaft extractor (mandatory for graphite, recommended for steel)
- Hook blade or sharp utility knife
- New ferrule sized to the shaft tip (.335" woods, .355"/.370" irons) and hosel OD
- Two-part shaft epoxy
- Ferrule turning machine or fine-grit sandpaper
- Acetone and a clean rag for the final finish
- Rubber shaft clamp and bench vise
- Heat-resistant gloves and safety glasses
Step 1 — Cut the Old Ferrule While It's Warm
Clamp the club, then briefly warm the ferrule with the heat gun. A warm ferrule cuts cleanly; a cold one is brittle and can chip the shaft.
Run the hook blade along the back side of the club, parallel to the shaft. Always cut on the back — if the blade slips, any mark stays hidden at address. Continue down to the hosel, then peel the ferrule off in one piece.
Step 2 — Pull the Head
Apply heat to the hosel and remove the head per our Re-Shaft a Golf Club guide:
- Steel: torch or heat gun, twist off
- Graphite: heat gun only with a shaft extractor — never a torch
Set the hot head aside on a non-flammable surface to cool.
Step 3 — Clean the Shaft Tip and Hosel
Drill the old epoxy from the hosel while it's still warm. Scuff the shaft tip with sandpaper (steel) or scuff just the clear coat (graphite — never sand into the carbon fiber).
Step 4 — Slide On the New Ferrule
Slide the new ferrule onto the shaft tip and seat it where it will rest against the hosel. Dry-fit first to check the diameter match — a ferrule that's loose on the shaft won't sit straight, and one that's too tight can crack on install.
Step 5 — Epoxy and Re-Install the Head
- Mix two-part shaft epoxy.
- Coat the inside of the hosel and the prepped shaft tip.
- Insert the shaft, twisting slightly to spread the epoxy.
- Slide the ferrule down flush against the top of the hosel.
- Wipe excess epoxy with a solvent rag.
Step 6 — Cure, Then Turn the Ferrule Flush
Cure for 24 hours (or per your epoxy spec). Once cured:
- Spin the club in a ferrule turning machine with fine-grit sandpaper, or hand-sand carefully.
- Bring the ferrule down until it's perfectly flush with the hosel — no lip, no gap.
- Wipe with acetone for the final glossy finish.
Important Notes
- Quick-fix alternative: split ferrules. If you can't pull the head, split ferrules clip on around the shaft and bond with epoxy. They work cosmetically but are a compromise — proper replacement is always preferred.
- Match the ferrule to the shaft AND the hosel. A ferrule sized to the shaft but not the hosel will leave a visible step. Measure both before ordering.
- Don't over-epoxy the ferrule. The main bond is the shaft-to-hosel joint. Excess ferrule epoxy just oozes out and complicates the turning step.
- Acetone melts ferrule plastic if applied too aggressively. Use it as a final wipe only — don't soak the ferrule.