What You'll Need
- Heat gun (never a torch — graphite resin combusts at ~350°F)
- Shaft extractor with adapter pulling capability
- OEM Adaptor Saver Kit — screws and washers that fit inside the female receptacle for safe pulling
- New adapter matched to the head brand AND shaft tip diameter (.335" or .350")
- Two-part shaft epoxy
- Adapter ferrule (if the new adapter requires a separate ferrule)
- 80-grit sandpaper or scuffing pad
- Wire brush or pipe cleaner
- Acetone and a clean rag
- Bench vise with rubber shaft clamp
Step 1 — Identify the Adapter and Tip Diameter
Before anything: confirm the shaft's tip diameter (.335" is most common for drivers/FW; .350" appears on some; .370" on most hybrids) and the head brand of the new adapter. A .350" tip will not fit a .335" adapter — and never sand a tip down to force-fit it. That weakens the tip and the shaft will be more prone to snapping.
Step 2 — Pull the Old Adapter
- Clamp the shaft in the extractor.
- Insert the appropriate OEM Adaptor Saver screw and washer into the female receptacle of the old adapter — this protects the aluminum from being crushed by clamping force.
- Apply heat from the heat gun to the adapter only, keeping it moving, for 30–40 seconds.
- Apply torque on the extractor. The adapter should slide off with moderate pressure once the epoxy releases.
- Set the hot adapter aside on a non-flammable surface.
Step 3 — Clean and Prep the Shaft Tip
- While the epoxy is still warm, scrape it off the shaft with sandpaper. Scuff only the paint — never sand into the graphite fibers themselves.
- Use a wire brush or pipe cleaner to clean residual epoxy from inside the old adapter (if you're saving it) or the new one.
- Wipe the prepped tip with acetone and let it dry.
Step 4 — Epoxy and Install the New Adapter
- Slide the adapter ferrule onto the shaft if required by the new adapter design.
- Mix two-part shaft epoxy on a clean surface, equal parts A and B.
- Coat the shaft tip and a small amount inside the adapter.
- Slide the new adapter onto the shaft while rotating to spread the epoxy evenly. Push firmly until fully seated — tap the butt end on the ground if needed to release trapped air.
- Slide the ferrule down flush against the adapter (if separate).
- Wipe excess epoxy with the acetone rag.
Step 5 — Cure and Install
Stand the shaft tip-down and cure for 24 hours (or per epoxy spec). Once cured, screw the adapter into the head per the manufacturer's torque spec.
Important Notes
- The screw goes in tight, not torqued like a lug nut. Over-torquing strips the threads or cracks the adapter. Use the OEM torque wrench.
- Tee-up alignment matters. Most adjustable hosels have multiple positions — check the dot/arrow alignment after install and before play.